How to choose a vodka

Vodka is defined by what it is not supposed to taste like, which is why choosing one feels harder than it should.

The legal definition

In the United States, vodka is a neutral spirit distilled to a high proof and bottled at no less than 80 proof. The traditional goal is a spirit without a distinctive character, aroma or taste. In practice, no vodka is truly neutral. Texture, sweetness and finish vary, and once you taste two side by side at room temperature, the differences are obvious.

The base ingredient does show up

Wheat-based vodka tends to be clean, crisp and a little peppery on the finish.

Rye-based vodka is slightly spicy and fuller in the mouth.

Corn-based vodka is faintly sweet and soft, and is naturally gluten free.

Potato-based vodka is the richest and creamiest of the lot, with a heavier texture that holds up in a martini.

Grape and sugarcane bases are lighter and a touch floral or fruity.

Distillation counts and filtration claims

A label boasting a high number of distillations is marketing more than method. Past a certain point, extra distillation removes character without adding anything. Filtration, usually through charcoal, smooths the spirit and takes out harshness. Again, more is not automatically better; heavily filtered vodka can taste thin.

What matters more is the quality of the cut during distillation and whether the water used to bring it down to bottling strength is clean and soft. You cannot read that off a label, which is why tasting is the only real test.

How to taste it

Pour a small measure of two vodkas at room temperature. Smell first, briefly. Sip and pay attention to three things: the burn at the front, the weight in the middle, and whether the finish is sweet, peppery or dry. That is the whole difference between vodkas, and it is enough to pick one.

Match the vodka to the drink

For a martini, buy the best vodka you can and pick something with weight. There is nowhere to hide.

For a vodka soda or a highball, a clean wheat or corn vodka is all you need.

For a bloody mary or a mule, the mixer does the talking. Buy the everyday shelf and spend the difference on better mix or fresh lime.

For shots, colder and softer wins; potato and wheat vodkas are kinder straight from the freezer.

Flavoured vodka

Flavoured vodkas range from natural infusions to sweetened syrups. Citrus versions are useful in a home bar and work in almost anything with lemon or lime. Fruit and confectionery flavours are built for punches and party drinks. Read for added sugar if you are watching the sweetness in a cocktail.

Proof

Most vodka is 80 proof. Some sit at 90 or 100, which gives a martini more spine and holds up better over ice. Higher proof is not harsher if the distillate is clean.

Storage

Keep the bottle in the freezer if you drink it neat; it thickens and the burn drops. Keep it at room temperature if you mix with it, so it does not chill your dilution out of balance.

Selection changes week to week, so call to confirm a specific bottle.